Susan Billingsley
ABR, CRS, REALTOR®

c. 205.223.3928
susan@wesellthemagiccity.com

Blair Billingsley Moss
ABR, REALTOR®

c. 205.222.5628
blair@wesellthemagiccity.com

Office: 205.870.8580 · Fax: 205.870.8544

Top 10 Pest Prevention Tips
  1. Keep gutters and downspouts free of leaves and other debris to help deter roaches
  2. To keep milipedes out, leave a 1 foot barrier or bare ground between the base of the house and mulch
  3. Many insects harbor in mulch, it should not be more than one inch deep
  4. Keep shrubs trimmed so they do not touch the house, this makes way for easy entrance
  5. Do not leave pet food where rodents or insects can gain easy access
  6. Do not overwater potten plants
  7. Do not allow standing water around the house or in the yard. This makes a perfect home for mosquitoes
  8. Clean up after dogs in the yard to prevent flies
  9. Use up old food items so beetles do not become a problem
  10. Use a pest prevention service for best results.
excerpt from: Vulcan Termite and Pest Control, Inc.
Rugs, Carpets & Floors
Vacuum rugs and carpets. Machine-wash or dry-clean area rugs (check label for manufacturer’s directions), and shampoo wall-to-wall carpeting. Wash and wax floors.
  • If floors are waxed, re-apply wax once or twice a year, and buff in between to revive the shine. Waxed wood should not be mopped—a wax seal is not watertight, and liquid could cause damage. Wipe spills with damp paper towels as soon as they hit the floor, and buff the area with a soft cloth. For wood floors with a polyurethane finish, damp-mop with a combination of 1 quart water and 1/4 cup vinegar.
  • Wax vinyl forty-eight hours after installation and about every six months thereafter. Apply wax sparingly directly on the floor, and spread it into a very thin coat using long, straight strokes with a wax applicator or sponge mop. Open windows, and let dry to a shine. Damp-mopping with warm water brightens a less soiled floor; wet-mopping with vinyl-floor cleaner removes more substantial grime. Remove wax buildup with stripper about once a year.
  • Masonry floors require care similar to that of vinyl, with the addition of an early step: sealing. Apply an all-purpose masonry-floor sealer (available at hardware stores) with a sponge mop or clean rags, following package directions. Once sealed, a stone floor should be waxed about once a year with an acrylic liquid or paste wax. To clean, damp-mop with water and mild soap, such as Ivory Liquid; rinse with clean water. After one or two waxings, repeat the process from the beginning: strip, seal, and rewax.
Shades, Curtains & Windows
  • Take down window treatments. Dust slat blinds, and launder curtains and fabric shades: Either hand-wash and lightly steam in place, or send to a dry cleaner.
  • Remove dust, dirt, and cobwebs with a soft brush. Wash windows inside and out with a mild dilution of either ammonia or white vinegar in water; dry with a squeegee followed by a rag.
  • Remove storm windows; replace cracked panes, recaulk windows, and repaint the frames before storing. Before installing screens, repair holes with tweezers (or replace entire screen).
Bedroom & Living Room
  • Vacuum mattresses and box springs.
  • Rotate and flip mattresses before replacing them on the box springs.
  • Flip sofa and chair cushions.
  • Sort through wardrobes
  • Separate clothes into piles: off-season, donation, dry cleaner, tailor. Wash and mend clothing before putting back in closet or storing.
Refrigerator
  • A frost-free refrigerator dehydrates its interior, turning liquid spills into caked-on lumps.
    Soak removable parts in warm, slightly soapy water or a solution of 1 or 2 tablespoons baking soda for every quart warm water. Loosen a hardened spill on fixed parts by covering it with a damp sponge or cloth; use a toothbrush in crevices. Don’t use bleach or ammonia, which can damage some surfaces.
  • Odors:
    Plastic linings absorb odors. Before tackling them, move food to a cooler or into paper bags wrapped in an old quilt or blanket for insulation. Unplug the refrigerator, wash the interior with the baking-soda solution and wipe it dry. When the refrigerator is on again, slide a shallow pan of activated charcoal (available at plant nurseries and pet stores) onto a shelf. If odors return, recharge the charcoal in a 300° oven for an hour. If the bad smell isn’t gone in two weeks, place a small dish of vanilla extract in the refrigerator to mask it. Don’t use odor-control products with a lemon scent because the fragrance sinks into plastic and stays there. To avoid unpleasant odors in the future, store leftovers in covered containers or resealable plastic bags, and wipe up spills promptly. An open box of baking soda inside the refrigerator will trap smells; when you notice the odor, replace the box with a fresh one.
  • Coils:
    Refrigerators cool by stripping heat from the air inside the compartment and releasing it through condenser coils. Dust acts like insulation on the coils and keeps them from releasing heat efficiently. Clean the coils with a vacuum wand or a long-handled brush. Older refrigerators may have coils located in the back. To avoid damaging your floor, try to clean them without moving the appliance. In newer ones, the coils are usually at the bottom, accessible by removing the front grill. Although some models have coils that their manufacturers say never need cleaning, pet dander can disprove that claim. Check coils periodically if you have cats or dogs.
Freezers
  • Drain hole: In side-by-side refrigerator-freezers, ice can build up on the bottom and block the defrost drain tube.
    If you can see the drain hole, mix 1 teaspoon baking soda in 2 cups hot water, put it in a turkey baster, and squirt it into the hole. If this doesn’t work or if you can’t find the drain hole (in some models, it’s inaccessible), arrange for a service visit.
  • Manual defrost: With chest freezers and old refrigerator-freezers, never try to pry off ice with a spatula or other tool; it might puncture the lining. Instead, turn off or unplug the appliance, and store food as suggested above for cleaning a refrigerator. Melt ice with a fan or a hair dryer set on low.
Ovens

When an oven starts smoking, it’s time for a heavy-duty cleaning.
Wash racks by hand unless the owner’s manual says they’re dishwasher-safe. Then try this homemade cleanser from “Clean House, Clean Planet,” by Karen Logan (Pocket Books; 1997).

  • Use aluminum foil to plug holes leading to the broiler. (Be sure to remove the foil after cleaning.)
  • Mix 1/4 cup salt, 3/4 cup baking soda, and 1/4 cup water into a paste.
  • Brush on, avoiding bare parts—salt corrodes metal.
  • Let it sit overnight; remove mixture using a slotless spatula or a putty knife.
  • Wipe with paper towels.
  • Use a plastic scrubber or sponge to remove remaining spots.
Microwave Oven
  • Stains and odors are the biggest problems with microwaves.
    Plastic interiors: Wipe stains with warm, soapy water, then plain water. If that isn’t enough, clean with 1 or 2 tablespoons baking soda mixed into 1 quart water. For caked-on residue, heat water in the microwave on high for 3 minutes; let stand 5 minutes (keep the door closed), and then wipe interior. In the future, cover food with a paper towel before cooking or reheating.
  • To remove odors, clean with the baking-soda solution, wipe surfaces dry, and leave the door open for a few hours. If the smell persists, stir 6 tablespoons baking soda or 1/2 cup lemon juice into 1 cup water. In a microwave-safe dish, heat mixture on high for 2 to 3 minutes. Then leave the door open for a few hours. Stainless-steel interiors: Use a plastic scrubber and a gentle abrasive. If that does not work (and you don’t mind scratching the surface), try soap-filled steel wool.
  • Other parts: Clean doors with only warm, soapy water or a mild, nonabrasive cleaner, and a sponge or soft cloth. Wipe control panels with a barely damp (not wet) cloth; moisture behind the panel could ruin the oven.
Stove
  • Electric burners: Wipe food off burners when they are cold. If residue remains, open windows or switch on an exhaust fan, turn burners to high, and let the food smoke off. If plastic melts onto a burner, scrape it off with a wooden spoon while coils are warm.
  • Gas burners: You can wash porcelain-coated stovetop pans and grates by hand unless their manufacturer recommends putting them in a dishwasher. Dishwasher detergent is more alkaline than hand-dishwashing liquid, and the machines keep their contents damp longer. Both factors may cause rust at gaps in chrome or porcelain coatings. You may not see the gaps, but the dishwasher will find them. Uncoated metal parts are best soaked and then rubbed with a scouring pad.
  • Glass cooktops: These must be protected from scratching. Clean with a pad safe for nonstick coatings, and dedicate it to only this use. Wipe up sugary spills while they are still warm. For burned-on food, use a razor blade fitted into a plastic handle: Hold it at an angle of about thirty degrees, and carefully scrape with the full width of the blade, not just a corner. Follow up with a dab of commercial cooktop cleaner on a dry paper towel, then wipe off the cleaner with another dry towel. If pans with copper or aluminum bottoms discolor your cooktop (and they might), switch to pans made of another material and use a cooktop cleaner recommended by the manufacturer; with daily application of the cleaner, stains should gradually disappear.
PERFORM A SAFETY CHECK
  • Check smoke detector batteries frequently; replace every six months.
  • Test batteries in carbon-monoxide detectors and flashlights.
  • Inspect pressure gauges on fire extinguishers.
REPLACE FILTERS
  • Vacuum and clean grates, coils, and condensers on furnaces, refrigerators, stoves, and air conditioners.
  • Remove filters in furnaces and air conditioners, and either clean or replace them.
Mountain Brook Office | 2850 Cahaba Road | Suite 200 | Birmingham, AL 35223